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San Remo to Borgio Verezzi - 46mi/74km
Borgio Verezzi to Noli - 8mi/13km
We finally have internet again, so it's time to catch up on our journey...
The most exciting news is that we finally had two days of sun! We tooled along the Italian Riviera, first another 10 miles or so on the bike path, then the rest of the way on the two-lane coastal road clogged with both weekend beach traffic and recreational cyclists.
This entire part of the coast alternates between rocky promontories that plunge straight into the sea and town after town of curated beach experience like this one.
Nice beach church at our lunch stop
I presented Eric with our gifts from Jeremiah, several GU products. It didn't make him very happy, so I gave him sausage and cheese instead! The Stroopwaffel was not bad, actually!
Our first destination was Borgio Verezzi, which we chose because we couldn't afford any hotels in our first choice destination Finale Ligure. BV was a very nice surprise! There is a relatively quiet new town right on the beach, and then a string of five medieval villages 500 ft up the hills behind the new town. We stayed at sea level, but of course we decided to spend our afternoon hiking up to the old towns instead of lounging on the beach!
Setting off from our hotel, the town streets quickly become ancient stone lined paths that gets steeper and steeper for the 30 minute climb up to the first town.
The towns themselves have their familiar ultrasteep medieval street pattern. Only Poggio had tourist retail. Other than that, real people seem to live here.
We came out of a small alley in the Hamlet of Piazza into the courtyard of Sant'Augostino, where a wedding was going on. We stopped to watch for a while, because I am obsessed with other people's weddings and Eric wanted to see how the getaway car would get away from this hilltop town.
The way down was even steeper and rougher - it is one of several Italian hiking routes
But our hiking sandals once again came through for us!
We ate dinner in a quiet local restaurant which, even if somewhat disorganized, was very good. Baby octopus (sorry!)
And pasta with swordfish for A
And a giant pile of meat for E.
The next day we had a very short ride to Noli, a more touristy town along the coast. Before we left in the morning, Eric went off to see the local caves, the Grotte di Borgio Verezzi. Arah had enough caves in parts 2 and 3 of this trip, so she sat it out.
These caves are known for their many stalactites and stalagmites, particularly the very thin straight spaghetti stalactites. It's also known for its vibrant colors, although Eric said these were slightly over hyped.
The one place where the color is vibrant was in this area, where someone saw biblical figures in the rock formations, so they stuck in a baby Jesus and are using red spot lights to illuminate the Nativity scene.
Then we were off to Noli. Another stretch of the narrow cliff side road.
The weekend beach scene was in full force. Italians seem to come to the beach by two means of transportation, motorcycles
and camper vans
And they all converge here!
Eric decided to head up to see the castle on top of a promontory that overlooks Noli
Unfortunately, the stairs and the elevator to the very top were closed. Apparently they're too dangerous, even for Italy!
But there was a beautiful view back down over the town.
Then both of us went out for a walk around Noli, another beautiful medieval village. We can start with our hotel, the Relais Real Collegio. located in an old boarding school with its own Tower and frescoes. Unfortunately it did not have the internet.
Noli has the usual well preserved medieval buildings
tiny streets
And a gate from the 13th century, complete with ancient wooden door
It also has a Roman Bridge
A flood wash-out that looks like it might be an ancient road
And a very charming small Romanesque church complete with...
part of a 12th century bishopric chair
which originally looked like this
And a fragment from a fresco with a 15th century date
Dinner was at L'alice Innamorata, where we had a leisurely meal in a tiny alley, including the house mixed plate of Ligurian specialties (including the quiche-like farinata, tiny cured anchovies and some cured meats)
Then veal Milanese (this has replaced magret de canard, as you will see) for E
Ravioli filled with bacalau and covered with a hazelnut sauce for A
We washed it down with some wine - actually, a lot of wine, since we each accidentally ordered a half liter instead of a half bottle. Oops!
Finally a stroll along the beach, where there are still a few fishing boats remaining, before we head back for the evening. We had a pretty big ride planned for tomorrow to get to Genoa.
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