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Loop 1: 6mi/9.5km, 8mi/13km
Rest day in Pozza di Fasso
Loop 2: 4mi/6.5km, 4mi/6.5km
Long post warning!
We took a break from our bikes to hike with friends. Here's what happened!
We left in taxis from Bolzano with 11 people and two dogs. 30 minutes, and 3000 feet of vertical later, we were dropped at the trailhead.
Immediately the wheat (the Swiss friends of Patty) were separated from the chaff (the original eight Americans.) Joel (who is training for a 170-km, 36-hour run) took off running, Lua, the 15 year old, took off power walking the two dogs, and Melissa strolled along with us (looking calm and dapper in her straw fedora and handbag!)
The other eight gathered their wits and set off.
The day was up, up, up through forests, with views back along the beautiful valley.
After about 4 hours of ascent we reached the pass, marked by the flag of the Italian Alpine Club.
Just over the ridge we could see our lodging - Rifugio Bergamo (Grasleitenhütte).
This isolated late-19th century "hut" (complete with a full-service restaurant, beer on tap, a full wine cellar, double rooms and hot showers), is run by a jolly lederhosen-wearing family, two of the members of which are named Hansel and Greta. No joke!
Overnight boarders like us arrive in the afternoon, are settled into their rooms, and enjoy a cold beer or Radler on the patio before being served an enormous dinner. It's like the AMC huts... but so much better. To be fair, the rifugios are serviced by helicopters, small roads, or very long cable tows, which allow them more generous supplies than the AMC.
After a meal that couldn't be beat and a couple of cut-throat games of Jenga, we all retired for the evening.
We awoke the next day socked into the clouds, the peaks around us alternately looking beautiful and like Mordor.
We waited for a break in the clouds and then set out to the pass that we had to climb that morning.
The terrain completely changed from the previous day, and we climbed for a couple of hours through a treeless moonscape.
Again, a flag marked the top. As well as a helipad, a bar and a band of merry Italian hikers.
It was all downhill from there - Eric and Melissa (still with her tote) contemplate the route.
Looking back at the top of the pass.
And soon we were down into Alpine meadow and groups of day trippers.
And mountain bikers.
Eventually we made it down to a tram, and from there the town of Pozza di Fassa, where we would spend a rest day. Bye for now peaks!
Our rest day included walking around the cute Tyrolian town of Pozza di Fassa, visiting the amazing QC Therme, watching the Switzerland/Sweden world cup game on the big screen at our hotel, the Hotel Arnika, and eating delicious group dinners both low-end (Pizzaria Salin) and Michelin-star end (El Filò).
We met up with another two Switzerland-based friends of Patty (FoP), bringing our number to 13.
There was also an epic storm, with torrential rain, thunder and lightning and hail. We were very lucky that we were in town and not on the mountain!
We set out early the next day for our second loop, hoping to avoid the bad weather predicted. A steep climb from the top of the tram...
took us back above the treeline and into the panorama of the Dolomites.
Eric and I took a little extra hike up for a view - this eight-minute scramble might have had an even better effort-to-reward ratio than Bald Peak!
From there it was a long, but easy traverse over to Rifugio Roda di Vael, where we met the rest of the group.
Hail from the day before
Navigating a narrow section of the trail...
It never rained, so we whiled away the time taking short walks to see marmots and views, playing long rounds of cards and napping.
A scramble up
This big rock
To get a view!
Mountain champagne
Our last day was another race against the weather, which threatened all morning, but again never followed through. It was sprinkling when we left the rifugio, all happy to use the rain gear that we carried!
Another traverse day
Running from the clouds
Looking back down at the rifugio
After a few more adventures, like a stop at this eagle to acknowledge the Fourth of July
And an attempt to stage some Via Ferrata photos
No wait, that's better...
A long walk along a narrow trail
Sometimes not entirely dry
We made it to the last hut, where we enjoyed cappuccinos (hooray Italy!) before descending a chairlift and a tram, and then catching a bus back to Bolzano.
Another successful hike in the Dolomites done!
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