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Today took us fully into wine country, and we spent the day on country roads winding between vineyards, up and down hills, and through small towns.
Modest winemakers' homes were interrupted by the occasional gargantuan villa, and we resumed our game of "I'll take that one" from five years ago. Eric got this one.
The day was only marred by what I have dubbed PPPP, palpably poor piedmontese pavement. As Eric says, it's more hole than asphalt, and all I know is that it's punishing on the posterior.
While we were on two-lane, unstriped country roads, the Italians allow 18 wheelers and other heavy equipment - like tractors - on these roads, so very soon you wind up with pavement like this
Once it gets really really really bad, they repave it, but for some reason only a quarter mile at a time, resulting in pavement patchwork like this
They also have a habit of not spreading the new pavement all the way to the edge, resulting in about 18 inches of shoulder with a 4-inch drop off. There is even a traffic sign dedicated to this situation, which I didn't photograph.
The pavement is terrible. (Sorry mom, but you know it, you just drove it!) All in all, between the pavement and the trucks, it was a white knuckle ride to Asti.
Nonetheless, we rolled in early, at about 2:30, as usual about 20 minutes into a downpour. We checked into our very central, nice apartment. This is a good trick that we have learned on this trip and aided by the rise of airbnb. Every few days we stay in an apartment that has a washing machine. Result: less handwashing and less stinky!
Off for a stroll around Asti, where we enjoyed the retail
And were compelled by the sign of gnocchi loving ravioli to eat dinner at this place, Dietro L'angolo
Which provided fresh homemade pasta, a mezzo of the proprietors uncle's Barolo, outdoor seating, and the simplicity we've been seeking. Success!
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