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Castelfranco Veneto (hereafter CSV, not to be confused with other Castelfrancos, including whichever one Eric was reading about when he thought there was "so much to do...") is like a tiny, adorable Vicenza. In fact, the people of Vicenza founded it in 15whatever. We can just imagine the conversation, over Aperol spritzes, "This adorable city is getting too crowded, let's go found a tiny version of this close by."
Here's a quick pic of CSV before we start the narrative:
Before we set off, we had to go see the rest of the sights of Vicenza. These included: the oldest theater in Europe, designed by Palladio and still used today.
Another building right across the street also designed by Palladio
The interior of the Duomo, designed by, can you guess who? It was meh on the Cathedral interiors scale, but there were some great old doors
A very graphic statue of this guy's martyrdom
And some lovely art
It also had this great painting of the ticked off baby Jesus. He does not look happy that be having his foot kissed.
And an all-marble intarsia (not sure if that's a thing) Last Supper - quite a feat!
Here's the man himself! He's standing in front of town hall, which he also designed.
I found this guy on the street. Does he remind you of a certain president?
Then we packed up and took our bikes up Monte Berico (which we had to push to the top of) to see a few things. Like the view of Vicenza from the top and the church, also at the top
From there we went to see the Villa de Nani, owned by the Valdarama family for over 300 years, known for the many frescos by the Veroneses (dad and son)
Apparently, Eric and I have no eye for classic frescos, because it basically seemed like the butt painting museum
But there were lovely views back across the fields to the hilltop church
Besides, the place was totally demolished in WWII, so they were fake Veronese butt paintings!
Here's one that wasn't a butt for you, Mom!
Then we hit the road to CSV. It was a short ride and we only saw a few photo-worthy sights along the way, like this fun farmhouse paint job.
Before arriving in CSV, with its tiny downtown surrounded by bell towers and walls.
We checked in to Albergo Al Moretto, and headed out.
CSV is known for one thing, and one thing only, which thankfully my mother told us about. Giorgione ("big George") was born there, and his only in situ altarpiece is in CSV's Duomo. It's quite lovely.
We also enjoyed the display of Catholic tabloids for sale in the cathedral.
As well as a few more Veronese frescoes, this time not of butts, in the sacristry.
As we walked around town looking for dinner, we realised that Sunday night is party night in CSV! The entire old town was full of bars serving apertivi and Aperol spritzes to overflowing crowds of people. We couldn't figure out if there is a special event, or if every summer Sunday is like that, but it's a pretty exciting town if you want to have a cocktail on a Sunday.
For dinner, we headed to Eclectique which was so eclectic that the older guy sitting next to us sent back his food for being too weird. We thought it was pretty good, even though they didn't have a single Italian wine on the wine list. Talk about eclectic!
Inspired, I had my first Aperol spritz
And some green pasta with shrimp tartare
And Eric had a kangaroo streak (!)
And fries.
A scoop of gelato each for dessert. Liquorice for E and passionfruit for me.
Then to sleep! Big 17 mile day ahead tomorrow...
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